Vintage Levi's 501 Fit Guide: 1970s–2000s

The Levi’s 501 has been around for well over a century, but while the style number has stayed the same, Levi’s has changed the fit quite a bit over the years. A pair from 1975 can fit and feel very different from one made in 1995.

Here’s a short breakdown to help you get an idea of the 501s many iterations from the 70s through the early 00s:

1970s:

’70s 501s are typically high-waisted and usually have a leaner silhouette than later 501s, with a fairly slim fit through the hips and thighs and a narrow, straight leg.

1980s:

Before I get into anything else, there’s one really, really important thing to keep in mind when you’re shopping this decade: Levi’s introduces the first women’s 501 in 1981.

The original women’s 501 is the 26501. This style is a “slim fit” variation of the 501, tailored primarily to reduce the total fabric bulk down the leg. The style is cut with different proportions through the waist and hips and features a straight-to-slightly-tapered leg. This variant is the most similar to the traditional men’s 501.

Then there’s the 17501. It has a more dramatic waist-to-hip ratio, meaning the waist is nipped in tighter while leaving extra room in the seat, hips, and upper thigh area. The thing that differentiates it the most from other 501s is the leg silhouette, which features a pronounced taper that narrows sharply from the knee down to the ankle opening.

There isn’t a ton to say about changes to the men’s 501s in the ’80s. They generally remain high-rise, usually sit comfortably around the natural waist, and have a little more room through the seat and thigh than their ’70s counterparts.

1990s:

If, when you think about 501s, you envision that “off-duty model” look, then you’re thinking of ’90s 501s. In both men’s and women’s varieties, the 501s of the ’90s are generally roomier through the hip and thigh, with a wider straight leg.

These are a great option if you want that relaxed vintage Levi’s fit. Buy close to your measurements for a classic straight leg, or size up for something slouchier.

2000s:

Early-2000s 501s start to look a little more similar to their modern counterparts. The rise trends a bit lower than in previous decades, and the overall fit tends to be snugger than many ’90s pairs while still keeping the familiar straight-leg silhouette.

An Ending Note:

Please keep in mind that these decade-by-decade measurements are guidelines, not rules. Size, shrinkage, wear, previous alterations, and even the factory they were produced in can all change the measurements of an individual pair. With vintage denim, the measurements of the jeans in front of you will always tell you more than the decade on the care tag.

Size, shrinkage, wear, and production differences mean no two vintage 501s fit exactly alike. Which, inconvenient or not, is also part of their charm.